Friday, May 25, 2012

Masriudoms, or Ode to Overhangs

And off we went South, all the way South.  Not much else to do on the day that all the gods decided to pour their rage in droplets aimed against the Catalan countryside.  What else, Masriudoms, the cave.  Still there, as I remembered it, just greener, and warmer.  No friends on the outskirts, all new crowd.  This time I lead up - painfully, from bolt to bolt, but I put up the line, remembering the scarry top-rope of ATP I did here long time ago, in different company, with different expectations, and a different vision of life.

Marcel in the stormy skies of the first pitch of ATP

Things change.  Others don´t.  I still can´t climb overhangs - but now I can fight my way up them.  I slowly get better though - I can contemplate overhanging 7cs that used to scare the soul out of my body.  I still have a deathly fear of leading them, I still can hardly face the fall - but I try.  Long, powerful moves, relaxing, flowing up.  It is fun and terrifying at the same time.  How much could it cost?  A lot.  Although I am still not doing that many pull-ups, I am slowly improving - and it´s an incredible feeling that makes me a little bit more inspired, a little bit more motivated for that extra effort, for that extra round of endurance, of campus, of pull-ups. 

Myself struggling with the second pitch of ATP, 7c

While slowly going about consolidating my 8a powers on vertical terrain, this year's other objective remains to send an overhanging 7c.  Rodellar or ATP would do just fine.  Small baby steps.  Let´s work, let´s train the core, let´s dyno, let´s climb.  Not there yet, but one day I will!

6 comments:

Fran said...

Las tracciones te serviran para ganar fuerza pura en brazos y algo de abdominales-dorsales,pero poco más.

En paralelo, y de manera principal, el mejor entreno son series de bloque y resistencia en pasos de desplome-techo, entre tu 60 y 120%. Aparte de la fuerza pura en sí misma, para sentirte a gusto en los desplomes lo mejor es reforzar tus capacidades de colocación, desplazamiento del cuerpo, compensación con pies, taloneos, rebotes, etc.

Cuando te sientas cómoda entrenando y bloqueando en desplomes tambien te sentirás cómoda en la roca, seguro!!!

Suerte, seguro que lo consigues!

uasunflower said...

Tienes toda la razon, Fran, gracias, y alli estoy, en el techo del plafon :)

pedrogelida said...

que dices jabata!!! que bien por masriudoms.buena via la atp.tu tira pa arriba que pa abajo ya iras jejeje.hay que ir a caders es la clave pa entrenar desplome,si haces 7c/+ en caders subes por todos los desplomes del mundo,digo yo...

pedrogelida said...

caders no calders jejeje,que ya no se ni lo que escribo..

uasunflower said...

:) siiii pedrin, muy buenos los desplomes, me encantan mas y mas...si, calders es el sitio, ya lo se....algun dia volvere!

Xopi said...

Alojamiento en Masriudoms
http://www.ruralgia.com/webs/canjulia